The P2S ships with a hardened-steel nozzle and hardened-steel extruder gears as standard equipment, built to handle abrasive and fiber-filled filaments better than the P1S’s stock stepper setup. The nozzle is compatible with Bambu’s H2D, but it is not interchangeable with the A1’s nozzle or hotend parts.
Let the hotend cool fully before removing a nozzle, or follow Bambu’s documented hot-swap procedure if you are changing nozzle diameter mid-print. Working on a hot nozzle without the correct technique risks burns and thread damage that a cooled swap avoids entirely.
Silicone socks for the P2S hotend are not interchangeable with the H2D or the A1, even though the nozzle itself matches the H2D. Fit only the sock rated for the P2S, and check it for melting or cracks every time you open the toolhead.
Disconnect power before opening the toolhead shroud, and keep the DynaSense extruder’s wiring and connectors clear of the nozzle and heater block while you work. A pinched cable or a connector forced back in at the wrong angle can disable extrusion force monitoring or the eddy-current flow sensor.
After fitting a new nozzle, update the nozzle diameter in Bambu Studio and confirm it before slicing. A mismatch between the physical nozzle and the slicer setting leads to under-extrusion, clogs or a first layer that never sticks.
This guide does not carry Bambu’s exact click-by-click removal and reinstallation steps or torque figures for the P2S toolhead. Follow the official Bambu Lab wiki or printed manual for that procedure and tool list rather than guessing your way through disassembly.
Picking the right diameter for this swap is covered in nozzle sizing beyond 0.4 mm, and the trade-off between brass and hardened steel is laid out in brass vs hardened steel nozzles — worth reading since the P2S ships with a hardened-steel nozzle as standard. Once the new nozzle is running cleanly, fold it back into the regular P2S maintenance schedule.