The P1P ships as a single open-frame unit rather than in separate base and combo boxes the way some other Bambu printers do. Bambu Lab moved the P1 line’s AMS bundle to the enclosed P1S in the current lineup, and the P1P itself reached end of production and sales on February 10, 2026 (Bambu Lab has committed to spare parts and firmware support through 2031). If you’re setting one up now, it’s most likely a unit bought before that cutoff, a gift, or a secondhand machine, and the setup steps below apply the same regardless of when it was purchased.
What is in the box
Bambu Lab’s own unboxing documentation lists the following contents: the printer body, a detachable LCD screen module (shipped disconnected for transit), a spool holder, a PTFE tube with anchor, one spool of sample Bambu PLA, a spare hotend, nozzle wiping pads, a power cord, an unclogging pin tool, a scraper, a set of Allen keys, and a Textured PEI build plate already resting on the heatbed. A 32 GB microSD card comes preinstalled inside the printer. The whole unit weighs about 9.65 kg, so lift it by the two molded handles on the box rather than by the printer frame itself.
The base P1P does not include an AMS. If yours came as part of an older combo bundle, that bundle added the standard AMS unit, not AMS Lite. AMS Lite was built for the A1 series and was never sold as compatible with the P1P.
Unboxing and removing the transport locks
Lift the printer out using the box’s handles and set it on a flat, stable surface with room behind it for cables and the filament path. Pull the accessory box out first so it doesn’t get buried under packing foam.
Remove the protective foam and cardboard from the top of the machine and from around the toolhead, but leave the foam block wedged under the heatbed alone for now. That one has a job to do during the self-test and comes out later, not during unboxing. Also clear the foam plug from the rear purge chute opening.
Underneath the heatbed are three screws holding it in a fixed transport position. Remove them with the H2 Allen key included in the accessory kit; skipping this step is one of the more common first-run mistakes, since the bed can’t level or move correctly with the screws still in. Peel off any protective film or stickers left on the plate and side rails.
The LCD screen ships as a separate module. Plug its ribbon cable into the port on the printer body, taking care to bend the cable toward the opening at the back of the screen housing rather than forcing it straight, then slide the screen into its slot and lock it by pushing left.
First power-on
Fit the PTFE tube and its anchor as shown in the included instructions, and mount the spool holder. Connect the power cable and switch the printer on.
The onscreen wizard walks through region selection, then Wi-Fi and account binding, usually done by scanning a QR code with the Bambu Handy app on your phone. If you’d rather skip cloud binding at this stage, you can back out of that step and connect the printer later, but you’ll still need to get through the self-test before printing anything.
Once the self-test completes, remove the foam block you left under the heatbed earlier. The printer will then prompt a firmware update after about 20 seconds of inactivity; take it, since running an out-of-date firmware version is a frequent cause of confusing first-print problems that have nothing to do with the printer itself.
Load the sample PLA spool into the PTFE tube and push it in until it stops feeding by hand. Before your first real print, set something under the rear purge chute to catch the short strings of filament that drop out during nozzle priming. The small cardboard box the filament spool shipped in works fine until you print or buy something more permanent.
What the extra sensors actually do
It’s worth being direct about this, since the P1P sits below the X1 Carbon in Bambu’s lineup and doesn’t share all of its hardware. The P1P has no Micro Lidar and no AI camera for spaghetti or first-layer defect detection. Those two features are specific to the X1 Carbon, X1E, and H2D.
What the P1P does have: a fixed monitoring camera inside the chamber, recording at 1280×720 and roughly 0.5 frames per second, used for a basic live view and timelapse capture rather than any automated defect analysis. Beyond that, it has automatic bed leveling, automatic Z-offset calibration, input shaping for vibration compensation, and a belt tension monitor that flags when the CoreXY belts need adjusting. None of this replaces watching the first layer yourself, since there’s no lidar scan or AI model checking the print on your behalf while you’re away.
Materials and the enclosure
The P1P is an open metal frame with no chamber and no door, so there’s nothing to fit a door sensor to and none is listed on the spec sheet. That open design also sets a real limit on materials. PLA and PETG print without issue in a normal room. ABS and ASA will print, but without an enclosure they’re more prone to warping, layer separation on tall parts, and noticeable fumes in the room, especially in a drafty spot or a cold garage. If you print those materials regularly, look at Bambu’s official P1P-to-P1S upgrade kit, which adds the enclosure panels, front door, and extra cooling fans, or a printed enclosure design from MakerWorld as a lighter-weight option.
On the nozzle: the P1P ships with the same 0.4mm X1/P1 Series nozzle assembly used across the P1 and X1C lines, rated by Bambu to a maximum of 320°C. The stock nozzle installed at the factory is stainless steel, not hardened steel. Bambu’s own documentation recommends upgrading to the hardened steel version of this nozzle (and a hardened extruder gear) before printing carbon fiber or glass fiber filaments, since the stock stainless nozzle wears faster against abrasive material.
Once the printer is leveled, connected, and running the sample PLA, the rest of the setup path splits into a few focused guides.