Most P2S setup mistakes happen inside the enclosure, same as on the P1S. Open the door, remove every foam block and shipping restraint, then follow the official P2S quick-start guide for exact screw and clip positions. Do not power the printer while the bed is restrained.
Place the machine on a solid, level surface with clearance on both sides and at least 10cm at the rear for the tube, chute and air intakes. Keep ambient temperature between 10C and 30C and humidity under 85 percent. The frame itself is redesigned, with steel X rods and a new touchscreen the P1S never had.
If an AMS or AMS 2 Pro shipped with the printer, remove its internal restraints, install the desiccant, then connect the PTFE tube and data cable before seating the unit somewhere it cannot slide. Do not trap the tube under the top cover or let it kink against the frame.
Install the build plate with its rear edge aligned and the correct surface facing up. Older plates of the same 256mm size still fit, though some lack QR-code recognition; the printer lets you disable that detection manually. Connect power, follow the touchscreen prompts, and install any firmware it offers. Binding to Bambu Handy is optional.
Run the startup calibration with the door closed and nothing touching the frame or camera housing. Some noise and quick movement during this pass are normal. Grinding, repeated impact or a cable snagging the toolhead path is not, so stop if anything catches on a moving part.
Keep every piece of shipping foam and restraint hardware. If the P2S is ever moved or shipped again, the bed and toolhead need securing the same way Bambu packed them, and the original packaging is the clearest record of how.
Once the printer is safely unpacked, the same measured approach carries into every stage that follows — see the general first-print checklist for setup principles that apply across machines. From here, run the P2S first print walkthrough to confirm the plate and filament choices, then move on to P2S calibration once a few prints have gone well.